Leopard Gecko (Eublepharis Macularius)
Genus: Eublepharis
Category: Lizards - Geckos
Origin: Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, and India
Lifespan: Up to 18 years.
Description:
The traditional Leopard used to be black and white spotted , but now there are many different bred color morphs.
The traditional Leopard Geckos now are yellow background colour with adults having brown spots. They have obvious ears and possess eyelids. They have no adhesive toe pads like other types of geckos, but do have claws on their toes.
Housing Requirements:
At least 3ft, wood Vivarium, not glass as same as bearded dragons they do not like seeing the reflection as they will think this another L/P.
A front opening Wood Vivarium is thermally better giving a better graded range of heat and cool as for a more naturalistic setting.
Your furnishings should be Rocks and logs will provide climbing areas and hiding places too.
Substrates
Substrates from kitchen roll to tiles ( no backing glue on these or it will will cause toxic fumes which are deadly for babies and juveniles and Adults. )
Children’s play sand : Never use this for babies or Juveniles it will result in impactation (blockage.)
This happened recently, the poor darling had to be operated on by the vet who was very concerned that sand is still being used.
They do not live on loose sand, it is much more compact with only a light covering of a sandy rocky mixture.
At present time I have been trialling what could be a better alternative although dearer in some ways, how ever I want to do some more research into this before, I can say state the benefits or draw backs. Will keep you posted.
Do NOT use cedar wood chips toxic to many Reptiles, or calcium sand.
Light/Heating Requirements:
Daytime high should be 82°F on one end of tank to 90°F under a spot light (choose wattage appropriate for providing the correct temperature. Night temperature should be 70° - 72°F. A small part of the substrate should be heated to 92°F using an under tank heat pad with a thermostat.
A spotlight with the appropriate wattage bulb should be used for maintaining daytime heat/light.
It has been recently proved that a 2% UVB strip light is good for your leopard gecko.
Food Requirements:
Hatchling and juveniles should be fed Crickets, small or no larger than space between eyes, Some love occasional Dubai Roaches and you can also feed them an occasional small Dubai moth if any happen to appear in your gut loading container.which most will love some will not touch them, again Wax worm these are addictive to your Gecko so one a week.
In poorly L/P's these are often used to put weight on Geckos that for some reason have or are loosing weight and for tempting to eat.
If your Gecko is having this problem please seek advice as soon as possible.
Please do not feed your gecko meal worms, often used as the main food of a cheaper diet which has minimal protein, Vets are saying they still see cases of impaction (blockage) caused by the hard skeletal Chitin (outer skin), this is often argued about saying that the juices in the stomach can break this done I believe it is better to be safe than sorry.
Although they are primarily insect eaters, they are known to eat a few caniverous things including when Adults, L/P Hatchlings
They can and do eat bits of vegetables and fruit in there diet in the wild, they actually eat rotten fruit, but, circumstances are very different in the wild. Never feed any rotten fruit or veg ,stale or old Live foods or any Wild Caught insects to your Leopard Gecko.
Adult leopard geckos will also eat Crickets, some will eat occasional Dubai Roach, wax worms and occasional pinkie mouse although I personally dont recommend mice.
Crickets, live prey should be dusted with calcium/D3 powder and vitamin supplements at every feeding for hatchling and juveniles, and every other feeding for adults.
Water/Humidity Requirements:
Water dish must be washed sprayed with Reptile Disinfectant and rinsed thoroughly before refilling daily to prevent bacterial growth, try to keep this in the cooler areas to avoid excessive evaporation and the same with any veg/ fruit.
Although in the wild they have a dry and arid type climate. An area under the hide box should be kept moist to aid shedding and simulate the leopard gecko's natural burrows., reptile moss is very good for this.
You will also need a dish of calcium at all times in your vivarium.
I believe I have covered everything, and is based on my experiences and the most up to date Vets Comments and Herpetology professional research I could find .
!-- AddThis Button BEGIN -->
<div class="addthis_toolbox addthis_default_style addthis_32x32_style">
<a class="addthis_button_preferred_1"></a>
<a class="addthis_button_preferred_2"></a>
<a class="addthis_button_preferred_3"></a>
<a class="addthis_button_preferred_4"></a>
<a class="addthis_button_compact"></a>
<a class="addthis_counter addthis_bubble_style"></a>
</div>
<script type="text/javascript">var addthis_config = {"data_track_addressbar":true};</script>
<script type="text/javascript" src="http://s7.addthis.com/js/250/addthis_widget.js#pubid=ra-4fb74f8c5b778e4d"></script>
<!-- AddThis Button END -->